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4323 North Paulina Street

A gingerbread cottage, with wood cut-out filigree work in west gable and brackets, wood slat work in gable. North facade has gable which follows the west facade. Note stained glass in first–floor bay window transom. Porch was added in 1926.

4323 N Paulina. Credit: Cook County Assessor

4323 N Paulina. Credit: Cook County Assessor

HISTORICAL FEATURES


Levi Pitner, a local developer, built a simple cottage on this site for Amelia and William Pettit in 1885. Between 1894 and 1928 it was replaced or was substantially altered and enlarged.

SOURCES


CCL Survey; Recorder of Deeds Office. only permit is sundry permit for porch addition on 4/14/1926 (Permit #78751; File 132265). 1880 Census.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 4332 North Paulina Street, the Ravenswood Elementary School.

  1. The next building is the school across the street, about 343′ from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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4332 North Paulina Street

Architect John J. Flanders designed the center section of the school in 1893. The north and south sections were added presumably in 1912, by the architect Arthur Hussander, who also build Senn High School in Edgewater Glen and the southern block of Lake View High School along Irving Park Road.

Note tendril patterns of Flander’s cut stone, replicated in terra cotta on north and south sections. Abundance of stone detail and clean design lines. Also note damage done by modern window sashes, bricked in window openings, sandblasting of brick in center section.

Flanders’ design anticipates some aspects of the Prairie School, with wide, overhanging cornices and horizontal elements incorporated as a visual stimulant to a sense of continuous flow.

The cupola was not merely decorative. It served as a sanitary improvement, facilitating the exit of smells from the sometimes unwashed children.

HISTORICAL FEATURES

This school was built as a replacement for an earlier structure, built in 1872, which was itself the second Ravenswood School. The first was built by the Ravenswood Land Company as an inducement for families to move into this area.

A 1905 photo of Ravenswood Elementary School. This was prior to the addition of the north and south wings by Alexander Hussander in 1912. Credit: Ravenswood School

A 1905 photo of Ravenswood Elementary School. This was prior to the addition of the north and south wings by Alexander Hussander in 1912. Credit: Ravenswood School

Built at a cost of $15,000 in 1893, the structure is the oldest elementary school building in the city.

The 1872 building, a four room brick structure, was called the Sulzer Street School because of its proximity to Montrose Avenue, then called Sulzer Street or Sulzer Road in honor of the first European settler in the area, Conrad Sulzer.

The school was enlarged during the summer vacation of 1888 to eight rooms to meet the ever-growing school age population of the area.

The 1891 fire atlas noted kerosene lamps used for lighting the older school, chicken yards in the back, and said that the janitor lived in the school’s basement.

SulzerSchool1874

The original school building from a photo taken about 1874. Credit: Ravenswood Lake View Historical Association

Flanders’ design, incorporating steam heating and “sanitary improvements”, was a big improvement over the earlier building. The architect’s Compensation plan may have had something to do with the state–of–the-art design of this building. When Flanders designed this building, he was working on a percentage commission basis for the Chicago Board of Education. With the population of Chicago exploding, and therefore with a critical need for schools, the city spent more than $2 million between 1890 and 1893 on building new schools and making major repairs on existing schools. Flanders earned $43,000 for his work, and the ire of several unsalaried Board of Education members. One board member demanded to know why one building design could not be used for every school which the city would build. Among many other schools designed by Flanders is the Louis Nettelhorst Elementary School on Broadway in Lake View, which was also added to by Hussander.

Room No. 9, Sulzer School, 9/26/1892. Credit Ravenswood Elementary School

Room No. 9, Sulzer School, 9/26/1892. Credit Ravenswood Elementary School

Between 1884 and 1893 Flanders designed more than 50 projects for the Chicago Board of Education. By virtue of the sheer number of his buildings, from his early Queen Anne designs, such as the Hyde Park High School, to his later projects, such as this one, Flanders had a significant impact on Chicago’s city-scape.

Land that must now be part of the south playground area was acquired in 1910, and was added in 1923.

Hussander’s wings added twelve rooms and many stairs. These stairs became a point of contention much later in the 1970’s when parents and the school council complained that they made much of the space unusable and turned down $500,000 in rehabilitation work, because they said the stairs would make the work impossible.

In 1929, Ravenswood School’s junior high students were moved to Stockton School, currently called Mary Courtenay School, just a few blocks east on Montrose Avenue, which was then a junior high school. Because there was unused space at Ravenswood School, Lake View High School used the space for their freshman students. At some point later in the 1930’s, the junior high classes were brought back to Ravenswood School.

Ravenswood has a very famous alumnus in Bob Fosse – Tony, Emmy and Oscar award-winning director (and choreographer), who graduated around 1941.

SOURCES

CCL Survey; Permits #549 on 4/27/1894 and n 155? on 12/27/1895, as well as #a6942; n1; Page 362; File 20983 on 8/17/1912. See Ellen Wineberg’s “Field Survey of Chicago Public Schools,” Chicago, 1981. Historical records. Ravenswood Elementary School History.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to the corner of West Montrose Avenue & North Paulina Street.

  1. The next destination is the corner north of you, about 410′ from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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Sulzer Road

You’ve reached Montrose Ave. Did you know that Montrose Avenue is named for James G Montrose, the Marquis of Hamilton, a Scottish noble and Royalist leader in the reign of Charles I?

We have a better candidate for the name of this street: Sulzer Street.

Conrad Sulzer was a Swiss immigrant to the US. He was among the first Europeans to settle in this area. A truck farmer, his family remained active in the area well into the 20th Century.

Grace Sulzer established the Sulzer Family Foundation to ensure that civic, social and educational organizations continue to thrive and enrich the community founded by her grandfather.

And we think this should seal the deal. The street you are at the corner of? It was renamed to Montrose from Sulzer.

Ravenswood School (3)

The outside of Ravenswood School has remained relatively unchanged since a north and south wing were added to the building about 1912.

So much has changed since Conrad Sulzer pioneered this land. We’d like you to join us with a remembrance from an unknown early settler after the break.

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4400 North Paulina Street

Note the Montrose Avenue facade, which is far superior to Paulina facade. Covered stucco cornice with brick prairie school patterns, elegant window transom patterns, coved bulkheads, and an arched door. Interior has mosaic tile entrance hall.
Like many of the buildings of architect Samuel N. Crowen (l872~1935), this apartment block has a kind of Egyptophile Art Nouveau quality to it. Crowen was considered “the architect of the future” in 1918, and designed a number of elegant Chicago apartment blocks, including the Sherland Apartment Building in Sheridan Park, the apartment houses at 415 W. Surf and at 4346 M. Clarenden near Montrose Avenue. He
also designed the Willoughby Tower (8 South Michigan Avenue) and the Stewart Manufacturing Company Plant. A native of Germany, he was largely self–educated, and designed a number of houses and apartment buildings on the South Side between 1894 and 1897 through a predecessor firm, Crowen & Richards. He had worked previously in the office of Solomon S. Beman, the architect of Pullman. Crowen had a distinctive design approach, and this building is excellent example.

4400 N Paulina. Credit: Google Street View

4400 N Paulina. Credit: Google Street View

HISTORICAL FEATURES


Crowen was the first owner as well as the architect of this building, which cost $75,000 in 1905. When the apartment block first opened in 1905 it featured 4-, 5-, 6-, and 7-room apartments with rents ranging from $32.50 to $40 a month.

SOURCES


CCL Survey; Permit #18752 on 5/22/1905. American Contractor 5/27/1905.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 4420 North Paulina Street.

  1. The next building is about 256′ north from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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4420 North Paulina Street

This house was designed by John Morrell for T. F. Washburn at an estimated cost of $6,000 in 1900.
Note the gracefully proportioned facade and unusual porch; unusual shingling and cornices; note quoins.

4420 N Paulina. Credit: Cook County Assessor

4420 N Paulina. Credit: Cook County Assessor

HISTORICAL FEATURES


Washburn was a varnish manufacturer who commissioned this house.

SOURCES


Permit N2 on 1/2/1900. CCL Survey. American Contractor 1/13/1900.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 4431 North Paulina Street.

  1. The next building is across the street, about 98′ north from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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4431 North Paulina Street

Charles Thisslew designed this building at an estimated cost of $18,000 in 1908. He included a large number of highly unusual details:
Third-floor sills, extending into second–floor keystones. Art Nouveau cast concrete or stone inserts. Chambered pillars on the bays. Stained glass. Highly European in its subtle details.

4431 N Paulina. Credit: Cook County Assessor

4431 N Paulina. Credit: Cook County Assessor

HISTORICAL FEATURES

Thisslew emigrated to the U.S. in 1882 from Norway and lived on this site both before and after construction of these apartments. A house stood here before the apartments were built. Among other projects, Thisslew designed flats for Gustaf Murbach at 1644 N. Leavitt in 1896.

SOURCES

Recorder of Deeds Office; Permit #2651 on 4/23/1908. In addition, permit for presumed division of apartments into smaller units on 3/12/1953 (B97289: Plan 3062; File 449486; book 67; Page 458).

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to the corner of North Paulina Street & West Sunnyside Avenue.

  1. The next building is the church across the street, about 400′ north from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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1713 West Sunnyside Avenue


An interesting design contrast with the other churches in the neighborhood.
This church, designed by N. Max Dunning and Clarence A. Jensen, takes inspiration from Greek temple forms found in the Pantheon and elsewhere. Classical architecture was quite typical in Christian Science churches in Chicago and many cities. What is not typical is the very high quality of design present here. Note the Superb proportions of the east facade, which express vertical thrust through the Ionic
columns and horizontal breadth through the width of the portico. This facade’s proportions, the monumental scale of the building, the skillful use of terra cotta ornament, the stained glass, and the copper lanterns flanking portico, all set this building aside as one of the city’s finest classical structures.
The building was extraordinarily expensive by the standards of its time, when Ravenswood’s largest and finest houses sold for only $6,000 or $8,000. Taking inflation in house prices into account, this building’s cost of $175,000 is equivalent
to about $10 million in 2000 dollars.
N. Max Dunning (1873-1945) was one of Chicago’s ‘most prominent architects, the designer of the American Furniture Mart, American Book Company Building also known as the Lakeside Press Plant #3 at 330 E. Cermak, and, with E. E. Roberts, the Oak Park Baptist Church. In this case, Dunning collaborated with Clarence A. Jensen, a lesser-known architect.

HISTORICAL FEATURES


The original Christian Science congregation moved out in the early 1980’s. A succession of other congregations have followed, the most recent of which, prior to the Philadelphia Romanian Church, was the Lakeshore Family Church. in the late summer of 1993. The church, which owned the building and adjacent parking lot, signed a contract with a Lincoln Park real estate developer for the purchase of the
three-quarter acre site and its building. He proposed to tear down the church and construct some 32 apartments and townhouses on the site, using setbacks and density levels inconnsistent with norms in the neighborhood, and which would require zoning change.
1713 W Sunnyside Ave, Philadelphia Romanian Church. Credit: Wikimapia

1713 W Sunnyside Ave, Philadelphia Romanian Church. Credit: Wikimapia


In the course of the following several months, community opposition grew. A few days before Christmas, 1993, at a community meeting, residents by an overwhelming vote rejected the proposed zoning change and recommended that the City Council also reject it. Shortly thereafter, the Lakeshore Family Church decided to nullify its contract with the developer and sell the site instead to another church, the current owners, who restored the building.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 4500 North Paulina Street.

  1. Cross the street, about 33′ north from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

4500 North Paulina Street

Decorative diamond-pattern brickwork in frieze and pronounced corner turret. Rusticated limestone on first floor, with small stone porches with Ionic columns. Its architect, Morrison H. Vail, boasted that the building had fronts of pressed brick with Bedford stone trimmings, hardwood [interior] finish with mantels, sideboards, and consoles, gas and electric fixtures, and steam heating, among other
features (Inland Architect). It cost $25,000 to build.

HISTORICAL FEATURES

This building was commissioned by Robert Bennett, who asked Morrison Vail to design the structure. Vail worked extensively in Ravenswood and also lived here. His house was in the 4200 block of Paulina (now the playground of the former Courtney School at Paulina and Berteau) and one of his offices was in the Bennett Building on the northeast corner of Ravenswood and Wilson avenues. He and Bennett worked together frequently. In 1895 alone Vail announced plans for three apartment buildings on land owned by Bennett. Vail also designed the first YMCA building for Bennett at the back of the Bennett Building (now demolished) and the apartment block at 4625-4627 N. Paulina.

4500 N Paulina St. Credit: Google Street View

4500 N Paulina St. Credit: Google Street View


After living in Ravenswood for years, Vail and Bennett both moved to Pasadena, California in the early twentieth century.

SOURCES

CCL Survey; Permit N1035 on 8/10/1895, Economist. 8/17/1895.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 4601 North Paulina Street, the American Indian Center.

  1. Continue north about a tenth mile to the next street, Wilson.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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4601 North Paulina Street

Masonic lodges were very active in Ravenswood in the late 19th and eary 20th centuries, as they were in other comunities. In 1885 Edgar Galloway, who had the house we saw on Hermitage, and other local residents began the process of establishing a lodge. They received a charter the following year for the Ravenswood Lodge. They met in a building on Wilson near East Ravenswood, until taking over Library Hall at Hermitage and Montrose in 1894. By 1926 the masons had outgrown that building and commissioned the architectural firm of Allen Webster to design this building at an estimated cost of $300,000.

Americaqn Indian Center, 4601 N Paulina. Credit American Indian Center

Americaqn Indian Center, 4601 N Paulina. Credit American Indian Center

SOURCES

aic
Permit A-8684, N38, P 98. Historical records

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 1512 West Wilson Avenue, the Truc Lam Temple.

  1. Turn right to the east on Wilson. You’ll cross an alley. Continue, it’s about 407′. A major street will obstruct you. This is Ashland. Your destination is the white building diagonally across the intersection.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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Native Village

Early maps indicate a Native American encampment in Uptown along what is now Wilson Avenue. The encampment was located somewhere east of Clark Street, which is still about two blocks further east.

We know it was east of Clark Street because Clark Street is an old trail leading to Green Bay. Clark Street exists on what were once low sand ridges formed between the North Branch of the Chicago River and Lake Michigan.

And we know because there were archaeological finds documenting the village.

This photo from 1928 is of a Potawatomi Chief named Dick King. Taken on Parry Island, Ontario by Frederick Johnson. Credit: Smithsonian Collections

This photo from 1928 is of a Potawatomi Chief named Dick King. Taken on Parry Island, Ontario by Frederick Johnson. Credit: Smithsonian Collections

The name Ravenswood, as well as its boundaries, have been subject to a long-standing, but generally good-natured debate for decades. The nearby village may have been led by a Potawatomi chief named Raven. Pat Butler, in his Hidden History of Ravenswood and Lake View1 suggests this was actually Potawatomi Chief Black Partridge.

Black Partridge, his native name was Mucktypoke,  warned Fort Dearborn’s commander,  Captain Nathan Heald, that young Potawatomi warriors were upset that the post had destroyed excess arms and whiskey in anticipation of leaving the fort.2

That destruction violated a verbal agreement that might have led to safe passage of the Heald party to Fort Wayne.

But it was too late. Retreating from Fort Dearborn, Heald led the US forces into a battle along the lakefront that has become known as the Fort Dearborn Massacre and more recently the Battle of Fort Dearborn.

Chief Mucktypoke is considered a hero of the battle, having saved Margaret Helm, the wife of the fort’s lieutenant, from being tomahawked.3

This statue, originally called the Fort Dearborn Massacre, was placed on the site of the battle by property owner George Pullman about the year 1893. The bronze work by Carl Rohl-Smith fell into disrepair. In 1931 it was acquired by the Chicago Historical Society. The statue was moved to the lobby of the museum. In 1972 the subtitle "The Potawatomi Rescue" was added to the monument. It was returned to Prairie Avenue in the 1980's, according to historian John Schmidt. It was removed from the Clarke House grounds in 1997, being put in storage. The statue and the subject of the American relations with native nations remains a politically sensitive subject. Credit: Library of Congress/ Chicago Daily News with the closeup provided by WBEZ.

This statue, originally called “The Fort Dearborn Massacre”, was placed on the site of the battle by property owner George Pullman about the year 1893. The bronze work by Carl Rohl-Smith fell into disrepair. In 1931 it was acquired by the Chicago Historical Society and moved to the lobby of the museum.
In 1972 the subtitle “The Potawatomi Rescue” was added to the monument. It was returned to Prairie Avenue in the 1980’s, according to historian John Schmidt. It was removed from the Clarke House grounds in 1997, being put in storage. The statue and the subject of the American relations with native nations remains a politically sensitive subject. Credit: Library of Congress/ Chicago Daily News with the closeup provided by WBEZ.

The incident, however is loaded with political overtones and meanings. For example, a statue of the famous rescue has moved about Chicago from the home of George Pullman in the Prairie Avenue District, to the lobby of the Chicago History Museum, back to the Prairie Avenue District and is currently warehoused by the city.4

Discussions about exhibiting it at the new park opened at the battle site were snuffed.

In any case, the name of the village of Ravenswood may derive from the native chief of the village that was once near here. After the jump we’ll discuss a few other ideas on this subject.

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