A Walking Tour of Old Ravenswood

Sulzer Road

You’ve reached Montrose Ave. Did you know that Montrose Avenue is named for James G Montrose, the Marquis of Hamilton, a Scottish noble and Royalist leader in the reign of Charles I?

We have a better candidate for the name of this street: Sulzer Street.

Conrad Sulzer was a Swiss immigrant to the US. He was among the first Europeans to settle in this area. A truck farmer, his family remained active in the area well into the 20th Century.

Grace Sulzer established the Sulzer Family Foundation to ensure that civic, social and educational organizations continue to thrive and enrich the community founded by her grandfather.

And we think this should seal the deal. The street you are at the corner of? It was renamed to Montrose from Sulzer.

Ravenswood School (3)

The outside of Ravenswood School has remained relatively unchanged since a north and south wing were added to the building about 1912.

So much has changed since Conrad Sulzer pioneered this land. We’d like you to join us with a remembrance from an unknown early settler after the break.

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4400 North Paulina Street

Note the Montrose Avenue facade, which is far superior to Paulina facade. Covered stucco cornice with brick prairie school patterns, elegant window transom patterns, coved bulkheads, and an arched door. Interior has mosaic tile entrance hall.
Like many of the buildings of architect Samuel N. Crowen (l872~1935), this apartment block has a kind of Egyptophile Art Nouveau quality to it. Crowen was considered “the architect of the future” in 1918, and designed a number of elegant Chicago apartment blocks, including the Sherland Apartment Building in Sheridan Park, the apartment houses at 415 W. Surf and at 4346 M. Clarenden near Montrose Avenue. He
also designed the Willoughby Tower (8 South Michigan Avenue) and the Stewart Manufacturing Company Plant. A native of Germany, he was largely self–educated, and designed a number of houses and apartment buildings on the South Side between 1894 and 1897 through a predecessor firm, Crowen & Richards. He had worked previously in the office of Solomon S. Beman, the architect of Pullman. Crowen had a distinctive design approach, and this building is excellent example.

4400 N Paulina. Credit: Google Street View

4400 N Paulina. Credit: Google Street View

HISTORICAL FEATURES


Crowen was the first owner as well as the architect of this building, which cost $75,000 in 1905. When the apartment block first opened in 1905 it featured 4-, 5-, 6-, and 7-room apartments with rents ranging from $32.50 to $40 a month.

SOURCES


CCL Survey; Permit #18752 on 5/22/1905. American Contractor 5/27/1905.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 4420 North Paulina Street.

  1. The next building is about 256′ north from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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4420 North Paulina Street

This house was designed by John Morrell for T. F. Washburn at an estimated cost of $6,000 in 1900.
Note the gracefully proportioned facade and unusual porch; unusual shingling and cornices; note quoins.

4420 N Paulina. Credit: Cook County Assessor

4420 N Paulina. Credit: Cook County Assessor

HISTORICAL FEATURES


Washburn was a varnish manufacturer who commissioned this house.

SOURCES


Permit N2 on 1/2/1900. CCL Survey. American Contractor 1/13/1900.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 4431 North Paulina Street.

  1. The next building is across the street, about 98′ north from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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4431 North Paulina Street

Charles Thisslew designed this building at an estimated cost of $18,000 in 1908. He included a large number of highly unusual details:
Third-floor sills, extending into second–floor keystones. Art Nouveau cast concrete or stone inserts. Chambered pillars on the bays. Stained glass. Highly European in its subtle details.

4431 N Paulina. Credit: Cook County Assessor

4431 N Paulina. Credit: Cook County Assessor

HISTORICAL FEATURES

Thisslew emigrated to the U.S. in 1882 from Norway and lived on this site both before and after construction of these apartments. A house stood here before the apartments were built. Among other projects, Thisslew designed flats for Gustaf Murbach at 1644 N. Leavitt in 1896.

SOURCES

Recorder of Deeds Office; Permit #2651 on 4/23/1908. In addition, permit for presumed division of apartments into smaller units on 3/12/1953 (B97289: Plan 3062; File 449486; book 67; Page 458).

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to the corner of North Paulina Street & West Sunnyside Avenue.

  1. The next building is the church across the street, about 400′ north from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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1713 West Sunnyside Avenue


An interesting design contrast with the other churches in the neighborhood.
This church, designed by N. Max Dunning and Clarence A. Jensen, takes inspiration from Greek temple forms found in the Pantheon and elsewhere. Classical architecture was quite typical in Christian Science churches in Chicago and many cities. What is not typical is the very high quality of design present here. Note the Superb proportions of the east facade, which express vertical thrust through the Ionic
columns and horizontal breadth through the width of the portico. This facade’s proportions, the monumental scale of the building, the skillful use of terra cotta ornament, the stained glass, and the copper lanterns flanking portico, all set this building aside as one of the city’s finest classical structures.
The building was extraordinarily expensive by the standards of its time, when Ravenswood’s largest and finest houses sold for only $6,000 or $8,000. Taking inflation in house prices into account, this building’s cost of $175,000 is equivalent
to about $10 million in 2000 dollars.
N. Max Dunning (1873-1945) was one of Chicago’s ‘most prominent architects, the designer of the American Furniture Mart, American Book Company Building also known as the Lakeside Press Plant #3 at 330 E. Cermak, and, with E. E. Roberts, the Oak Park Baptist Church. In this case, Dunning collaborated with Clarence A. Jensen, a lesser-known architect.

HISTORICAL FEATURES


The original Christian Science congregation moved out in the early 1980’s. A succession of other congregations have followed, the most recent of which, prior to the Philadelphia Romanian Church, was the Lakeshore Family Church. in the late summer of 1993. The church, which owned the building and adjacent parking lot, signed a contract with a Lincoln Park real estate developer for the purchase of the
three-quarter acre site and its building. He proposed to tear down the church and construct some 32 apartments and townhouses on the site, using setbacks and density levels inconnsistent with norms in the neighborhood, and which would require zoning change.
1713 W Sunnyside Ave, Philadelphia Romanian Church. Credit: Wikimapia

1713 W Sunnyside Ave, Philadelphia Romanian Church. Credit: Wikimapia


In the course of the following several months, community opposition grew. A few days before Christmas, 1993, at a community meeting, residents by an overwhelming vote rejected the proposed zoning change and recommended that the City Council also reject it. Shortly thereafter, the Lakeshore Family Church decided to nullify its contract with the developer and sell the site instead to another church, the current owners, who restored the building.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 4500 North Paulina Street.

  1. Cross the street, about 33′ north from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

4500 North Paulina Street

Decorative diamond-pattern brickwork in frieze and pronounced corner turret. Rusticated limestone on first floor, with small stone porches with Ionic columns. Its architect, Morrison H. Vail, boasted that the building had fronts of pressed brick with Bedford stone trimmings, hardwood [interior] finish with mantels, sideboards, and consoles, gas and electric fixtures, and steam heating, among other
features (Inland Architect). It cost $25,000 to build.

HISTORICAL FEATURES

This building was commissioned by Robert Bennett, who asked Morrison Vail to design the structure. Vail worked extensively in Ravenswood and also lived here. His house was in the 4200 block of Paulina (now the playground of the former Courtney School at Paulina and Berteau) and one of his offices was in the Bennett Building on the northeast corner of Ravenswood and Wilson avenues. He and Bennett worked together frequently. In 1895 alone Vail announced plans for three apartment buildings on land owned by Bennett. Vail also designed the first YMCA building for Bennett at the back of the Bennett Building (now demolished) and the apartment block at 4625-4627 N. Paulina.

4500 N Paulina St. Credit: Google Street View

4500 N Paulina St. Credit: Google Street View


After living in Ravenswood for years, Vail and Bennett both moved to Pasadena, California in the early twentieth century.

SOURCES

CCL Survey; Permit N1035 on 8/10/1895, Economist. 8/17/1895.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 4601 North Paulina Street, the American Indian Center.

  1. Continue north about a tenth mile to the next street, Wilson.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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4601 North Paulina Street

Masonic lodges were very active in Ravenswood in the late 19th and eary 20th centuries, as they were in other comunities. In 1885 Edgar Galloway, who had the house we saw on Hermitage, and other local residents began the process of establishing a lodge. They received a charter the following year for the Ravenswood Lodge. They met in a building on Wilson near East Ravenswood, until taking over Library Hall at Hermitage and Montrose in 1894. By 1926 the masons had outgrown that building and commissioned the architectural firm of Allen Webster to design this building at an estimated cost of $300,000.

Americaqn Indian Center, 4601 N Paulina. Credit American Indian Center

Americaqn Indian Center, 4601 N Paulina. Credit American Indian Center

SOURCES

aic
Permit A-8684, N38, P 98. Historical records

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 1512 West Wilson Avenue, the Truc Lam Temple.

  1. Turn right to the east on Wilson. You’ll cross an alley. Continue, it’s about 407′. A major street will obstruct you. This is Ashland. Your destination is the white building diagonally across the intersection.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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Native Village

Early maps indicate a Native American encampment in Uptown along what is now Wilson Avenue. The encampment was located somewhere east of Clark Street, which is still about two blocks further east.

We know it was east of Clark Street because Clark Street is an old trail leading to Green Bay. Clark Street exists on what were once low sand ridges formed between the North Branch of the Chicago River and Lake Michigan.

And we know because there were archaeological finds documenting the village.

This photo from 1928 is of a Potawatomi Chief named Dick King. Taken on Parry Island, Ontario by Frederick Johnson. Credit: Smithsonian Collections

This photo from 1928 is of a Potawatomi Chief named Dick King. Taken on Parry Island, Ontario by Frederick Johnson. Credit: Smithsonian Collections

The name Ravenswood, as well as its boundaries, have been subject to a long-standing, but generally good-natured debate for decades. The nearby village may have been led by a Potawatomi chief named Raven. Pat Butler, in his Hidden History of Ravenswood and Lake View1 suggests this was actually Potawatomi Chief Black Partridge.

Black Partridge, his native name was Mucktypoke,  warned Fort Dearborn’s commander,  Captain Nathan Heald, that young Potawatomi warriors were upset that the post had destroyed excess arms and whiskey in anticipation of leaving the fort.2

That destruction violated a verbal agreement that might have led to safe passage of the Heald party to Fort Wayne.

But it was too late. Retreating from Fort Dearborn, Heald led the US forces into a battle along the lakefront that has become known as the Fort Dearborn Massacre and more recently the Battle of Fort Dearborn.

Chief Mucktypoke is considered a hero of the battle, having saved Margaret Helm, the wife of the fort’s lieutenant, from being tomahawked.3

This statue, originally called the Fort Dearborn Massacre, was placed on the site of the battle by property owner George Pullman about the year 1893. The bronze work by Carl Rohl-Smith fell into disrepair. In 1931 it was acquired by the Chicago Historical Society. The statue was moved to the lobby of the museum. In 1972 the subtitle "The Potawatomi Rescue" was added to the monument. It was returned to Prairie Avenue in the 1980's, according to historian John Schmidt. It was removed from the Clarke House grounds in 1997, being put in storage. The statue and the subject of the American relations with native nations remains a politically sensitive subject. Credit: Library of Congress/ Chicago Daily News with the closeup provided by WBEZ.

This statue, originally called “The Fort Dearborn Massacre”, was placed on the site of the battle by property owner George Pullman about the year 1893. The bronze work by Carl Rohl-Smith fell into disrepair. In 1931 it was acquired by the Chicago Historical Society and moved to the lobby of the museum.
In 1972 the subtitle “The Potawatomi Rescue” was added to the monument. It was returned to Prairie Avenue in the 1980’s, according to historian John Schmidt. It was removed from the Clarke House grounds in 1997, being put in storage. The statue and the subject of the American relations with native nations remains a politically sensitive subject. Credit: Library of Congress/ Chicago Daily News with the closeup provided by WBEZ.

The incident, however is loaded with political overtones and meanings. For example, a statue of the famous rescue has moved about Chicago from the home of George Pullman in the Prairie Avenue District, to the lobby of the Chicago History Museum, back to the Prairie Avenue District and is currently warehoused by the city.4

Discussions about exhibiting it at the new park opened at the battle site were snuffed.

In any case, the name of the village of Ravenswood may derive from the native chief of the village that was once near here. After the jump we’ll discuss a few other ideas on this subject.

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1521 West Wilson Avenue

Just down Wilson from the Masonic Lodge on Paulina, on the southeast corner of Ashland, is another Masonic hall, the Paul Revere Lodge, now the Truc Loc Temple. The building started out as the “Ravenswood Club,” a private membership organization similar to a country club. It received a state charter in 1898. Initiation fees were $50; annual dues were $40. The club house, which was open daily, had a reception hall, parlor, dining room and billiard hall on the first floor; a dance hall on the second floor; and a bowling alley and kitchen in the basement. In later years the club also offered ping pong and fencing.

Truc Lam Temple, 1512 W Wilson Ave. Credit: Uptown Update

Truc Lam Temple, 1521 W Wilson Ave. Credit: Uptown Update

By 1917 the club was having financial problems and three years later, in 1920, it sold the building to the Paul Revere Masonic Lodge.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to 1601 West Leland Street, Our Lady of Lourdes Church.

  1. The next building is about a tenth of a mile north on Ashland at Leland.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.

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1601 West Leland Street

Many stone details and tile and copper trim enliven a yellow brick structure. Also note cast iron lamps outside doors; metal fretwork over front door; and dome with copper lantern at crossing. The church’s cruciform floor plan, large windows, high ceilings and grand size make for an inspiring worship experience.

Henry Worthmann (1857-1946) and J. G. Steinbach also designed, among many other churches. St. Mary of the Angels on Hermitage Avenue just south of Armitage Avenue, and St. Nicholas Ukrainian Catholic Cathedral, 2238 West Rice Street at Chicago Avenue. This church was designed in a Spanish Romanesque style; the architects were equally at ease designing Renaissance and Neo-Byzantine structures.

HISTORICAL FEATURES

In 1929 this church was moved across Ashland Avenue and turned 90o, one of the largest building relocation projects in US history. Due to the need to widen Ashland Avenue, the church: whose front door previously faced Ashland from the southeast corner of Ashland and Leland, was moved across Ashland in early 1929 so that its front door now faces Leland. It was also lengthened 30 feet, increasing the seating from 800 to 1,370.

1601 W Leland, Our Lady of Lourdes. Credit: Uptown Update

Our Lady of Lourdes as it looked on the east side of Ashland, prior to 1929. Credit: Uptown Update

Today, the church serves a very large congregation with a large number of masses, all well attended. One of its most unusual ministries is a small chapel just west of the church’s south end (accessible off the alley west of the church). This chapel, which simulates the Grotto at Lourdes, France, houses the Blessed Sacrament. Is continuously manned by volunteer laity from the parish 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. This means that anyone can go to this church at any time to pray in the grotto. It is often quite crowded.

The grotto inside Our Lady of Lourdes. Credit: Flikr

The grotto inside Our Lady of Lourdes. Credit: Flikr

SOURCES

Original Permit was A12954 on 5/28/1913, N5, page 135, 87411, file 39365. A second permit, presumably for the move, was 28038 on 8/31/1928 (Plan AB340; Water 13575; File 196741; N$$, page 201). See also George Lane’s Chicago Churches and Synagogues (Chicago: Loyola University Press, 1981), and History of the Parishes of the Archdiocese of Chicago Volume I, published 1980 by the Archdiocese, pages 701-706.

WALKING DIRECTIONS TO NEXT LOCATION

Continue the tour to Chase Park, diagonal from the church.

  1. The next destination is diagonally across the street, about 33′ from you.
  2. Click the ‘Continue the Tour’ button below when you’ve reached your destination.